Shopping areas
Campo San Bartolomio and Rialto. Good shopping areas surround Campi San Salvador and San Bartolomio. The Rialto district is the mecca for buyers of traditional, inexpensive souvenirs. Hanging in colored bunches are the furlane, or pantofole del gondoliere, velvety slippers with a rubber sole that resemble the traditional gondoliers' shoes; 18th-century-style wooden trays and coasters that will look better when worn out a bit; and glass "candies," which make a nice, inexpensive gift. Clothing and shoe shops are concentrated between the Rialto Bridge and San Polo, along Ruga Vecchia San Giovanni and Ruga Ravano, and around Campo Sant'Aponal.
Mercerie. For centuries this was where Venetians came to shop. Only a few refined shops survive - the rest are spread out along other streets in the center of town - and a run of anonymous clothing shops and cheap souvenir boutiques have taken their place. Gucci is on Merceria dell'Orologio, but it has little of the flair and selection you'll find at its sister shops in Rome and Milan.
Piazza San Marco The rule here is simple: the closer you are to Piazza San Marco, the higher the prices, especially for low-end market stuff. The serious jewelry and glasswork in the windows of the shops of the Procuratie Vecchie and Nuove make for a pleasant browse, and during the summer your stroll will be accompanied by the music from the bands that set up in front of Caffè Quadri and Florian.
San Marco has its fair share of boutiques, jewelry shops, antique dealers, and the most important art galleries in the city, including Bugno Samueli.
Accessories and shoes
Gucci (Merceria dell'Orologio, 258, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5229119) sells just ladies' shoes, bags, and accessories here - for clothing you'll have to drop into the shops in Milan, Florence, or Rome.
Hermes (Procuratie Vecchie, 127, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5210117) offers the famous French foulards and accessories.
Bastianello (Via Due Aprile, off Campo San Bartolomio, 5042 San Marco, Tel: 041/5226751) has classic jewelry as well as pieces made with semiprecious stones.
La Bauta (Merceria del CapiTel.lo, 705 San Marco, Tel: 041/5200324) is devoted to Tiffany creations.
Cartier (Campo San Zulian, 606 San Marco, Tel: 041/5222071) has watches and jewelry by the famous designer.
Elena (Merceria dell'Orologio, 214 San Marco, Tel: 041/5226540) carries pieces signed by world-famous jewelers Fabergé, Buccellati, Chanel, Piguet, and Damiani.
Missaglia (Procuratie Vecchie, 125 San Marco, Tel: 041/5224464) is one of the Piazza's shopping landmarks, selling fabulous jewelry and a few silver accessories.
Nardi (Under Procuratie Nuove, 69 San Marco, Tel: 041/5225733) sells exquisite moretti - earrings and brooches in the shape of Moors' heads - studded with diamonds, rubies, or emeralds.
Pomellato (Salizzada San Moisè, 1298 San Marco, Tel: 041/522010408) is a leading Italian designer, with shops in Rome and Milan.
Rizzo (Merceria San Zulian, 706 San Marco, Tel: 041/5229380) has no sign posted, but this is the place to come for antique brooches, earrings, pendants, and ceramic manTel.pieces. With discretion and good manners, prices can be bargained down a bit.
Salvadori (Merceria San Salvador, 5022 San Marco, Tel: 041/5230609) specializes in precious watches, but they also have sparkling diamonds and the like.
Leather Goods
La Bottega Veneta (Calle Vallaresso, 1337 San Marco, Tel: 041/5228489) is a well-known prestigious Italian chain selling bags typically made with intertwined strips of leather, plus smoother bags and low-heeled elegant shoes (for ladies only).
Casella (Via Due Aprile, Tel: 041/5228848) has a good selection of everyday shoes - no glamour but rather low prices.
Emporium (Spadaria, 670 San Marco, Tel: 041/5235911) has traveling bags and suitcases by Alviero Martini, typically decorated with geographical maps in light colors, and Trussardi accessories.
Fendi (Salizzada San Moisè, 1474 San Marco, Tel: 041/5205733) carries bags, shoes, and leather/fur winter clothing signed by the Fendi sisters.
FraTel.li Rossetti (Campo San Salvador, 4800 San Marco, Tel: 041/5230571) has bags, boots, leather jackets, and shoes of the Rossetti brothers - for once, the selection here is better than in their Roman shop.
Kalimala (Salizzada San Lio, near Campo Santa Maria Formosa, 5387 Castello, Tel: 041/5283596) creates very special bags perfect to match your casual/trendy summer outfits. Go and touch the super-soft leather in person - this place is not to be missed.
Marforio (Campo San Salvador, 5033 San Marco, Tel: 041/5239519) is a quality shop with good prices, well stocked with bags, suitcases, belts, wallets, and leather accessories like cases for glasses and shoe polish boxes. Among the designer items, you'll find Valentino, Armani, and the famous natural leather Florentine line called The Bridge.
Mariani (Calle del Teatro, off Campo San Luca, 4775 San Marco, Tel: 041/5235580) is one of Venice's best shoe shops, with very affordable prices.
Vogini (Salizzada San Moisè, 1257/a San Marco, Tel: 041/5222573), well stocked with designer bags by Armani, Moschino, Fendissime (Fendi's less expensive line), and Versace, also has its own line of classic bags in real crocodile, lizard, and ostrich leather.
Department stores
Middle-market Standa (4540 San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5238444) has elegant clothing and fine perfume.
Standa on the Strada Nova (Ponte San Felice, 3659, Venice, Tel: 041/5238046) has clothing, perfume, housewares, and a supermarket.
Standa (Via Corfu 1/a, Venice), on the Lido and on the way to the beaches, has a large supermarket that carries just about everything you'll need for a day at the beach.
Decidedly upmarket, Coin (Salizzada San Grisostomo, near Campo San Bartolomio) sells clothing, leather goods, and housewares.
Clothing
Agnona (Calle Vallaresso, 1307, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5205733) has incredibly warm cashmere and wool knitwear and winter coats - all in soft natural colors (creamy white and various shades of beige) and clean cuts. In summer, the designers switch to linen. Angora slippers make a great gift.
Al Duca d'Aosta (Merceria del CapiTel.lo, 4946, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5220733) stocks such men's classics as Burberry and Ralph Lauren.
Al Duca d'Aosta (Merceria del CapiTel.lo, 4922, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5204079) offers international pret-a-porter selections for women on its two floors: Jil Sander, Rebecca Moses, Donna Karan, and Ralph Lauren.
Armani (Calle Goldoni, 4412, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5234758) delivers its superlative signature style and service - women's silk shirts are especially striking for quality, design, and price. Those who don't get to the dressing rooms can rest on comfortable couches.
Arras (Campiello Squellini, 3234 Dorsoduro, Venice, Tel: 041/5226460) sells exclusive ladies' scarves, blouses, and jackets, all hand-woven in wool or silk. It also occasionally organizes weaving workshops.
Camiceria San Marco (Calle Vallaresso, 1340 San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5221432) is the town's top custom shirtmaker, with a good assortment of blouses and shirts. Only the finest fabrics are used, and they can also be bought by the meter. Elegant pajamas, gowns, and ladies' dresses complete the scene.
Ceriello (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4275, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5222062) is the only men's shop in Venice with Brioni suits.
Cima(Merceria del CapiTel.lo, 4918, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5234988) carries the best Italian brands of lingerie, from glossy silk to cotton lace.
La Coupole (Calle Lunga XXII Marzo, 2366, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5224243), with three selling points a stone's throw from one another, offers an excellent selection of name-brand alta moda (high fashion).
Dolce & Gabbana (Calle Vallaresso, 1314, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5205733) designs most of its women's collections - usually characterized by a mild transgressive flair - for the slim and fit who don't want to look banal.
Elite (Calle Larga San Marco, 284, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5230145) is the gentleman's source for that not-so-casual Italian outdoor wear and the quintessentially English Aquascutum coats and suits that are ubiquitous in Italy. There are also silk ties and cashmere scarves.
Elysee (Calle Goldoni, 4485, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5236948) stocks mostly Armani or Armani-style clothing.
Emporio Armani (Calle dei Fabbri, 989, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5237808) flaunts the famous stylist's casual line, his eagle symbol fastened onto just about everything.
La Fenice (Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2255, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5231273) has an assortment of the major Italian and foreign stylists, including evening dresses and shoes to match.
Fiorella Mancini (Campo Santo Stefano, 2806, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5209228) is your best bet for original creations and the craziest look in town.
Istante (Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2359, San Marco, Venice, Tel: 041/5232162) sells the label's more classic line.
Kenzo (Ramo dei Fuseri, 1814, San Marco, Tel: 041/5205733) stocks trendy stuff for young women with big wallets. Neat, slim cuts are daringly matched to brightly colored, often flowery patterns, which at their best recall sumptuous tapestry - wear a Kenzo jacket and you needn't worry about being missed in a crowd.
Mario Borsato (Calle Vallaresso, 1318, San Marco, Tel: 041/5210313) is a local designer who creates sober designs for women. If you like the look, inquire about their large shop in Treviso.
Missoni (Calle Vallaresso, 1312, San Marco, Tel: 041/5205733) sells scarves and women's clothing made of wool, linen, or cotton, but all rigorously knitted and dramatically colorful.
La Perla (Campo San Salvador, 4828 San Marco, TEL: 041/5226459) specializes in extremely elegant lingerie. It's comfortable, too.
Prada (Campo San Moisè, 1479, San Marco, Venice, TEL: 041/5283966), open here since only 1998, is one of the largest Prada stores in Italy. Suit up in modern-looking garb made out of technological materials, leather, or not-so-delicate natural fibers.
Shirt Shop (Campo Sant'Angelo, 3820, San Marco, Venice) specializes in good-quality ladies' cotton shirts and blouses and well-made stockings.
La Tour (Calle Larga San Marco, 287, San Marco, TEL: 041/5225147) carries labels such as Versace, Ferré, and the unparalleled Malo cashmere-wear.
Trussardi (Spadaria, 695, San Marco, TEL: 041/5285757) houses the clothing, shoes, and bags of the famous Italian designer.
Valentino (Salizzada San Moisè, 1473, San Marco, TEL: 041/5205733) only sells women's clothing signed by the famous stylist of the same name.
Gifts
Antichita Santomanco della Toffola (Frezzeria, 1504 San Marco, TEL: 041/5236643) specializes in Russian and English silver-work, old prints, period glass work and jewelry, and bric-a-brac.
Il Baule Blu (Calle Prima, off Campo San Tomà, 2916/a San Polo, TEL: 041/719448) specializes in orsi artistici, teddy bears to collect and treat with great care. All fastidiously handmade and different from one another, these old-fashioned toys have articulated paws and glass eyes, and when squeezed on their tummy can either grumble or play a carillon tune. Some are stark naked, others are dressed in old baby garments trimmed with lace and ribbons. They come in all sizes, genders, ages, and colors.
Casa del Regalo (Calle Vallaresso, 1342 San Marco, Venice, TEL: 041/5224976) sells dated kitsch souvenirs like glass paperweights with the Basilica's picture inside, pillboxes with fake mosaic patterns, and sparkling glass jewelry imitating precious stones and diamonds.
Fusetti Diego Baruch (Ghetto Vecchio, 1218, Cannaregio, TEL: 041/720092) has all manner of handmade Jewish handicrafts, including replicas of antique menorahs, in glass, bronze, gold, silver, and mosaic.
Perle Veneziane (Ponte della Canonica, 4308, San Marco, TEL: 041/5289059) fits the bill when you've got gifts to buy and no time left. "Venetian Beads," two minutes from Piazza San Marco, comes to the rescue with an assortment of necklaces and period Venetian glass jewelry or loose modern beads. It also stocks murrine, pour tops for olive oil bottles, and an assortment of glass curios.
Le Sculture di Livio de Marchi (Calle delle Carrozze, near Palazzo Grassi, 3157/a, San Marco, TEL: 041/5285694) received national news coverage during the 1999 Carnival season when Signor De Marchi created a costume for boats: a car body made of wood. His swift hands turn wood into gold, or rather into outstanding full-scale sculptures that perfectly reproduce everyday objects like hats, laundry hung out to dry, Tel.eTels, jackets, books, fruit, lace - even underwear. Prices start at about $80, but can easily reach four figures.
Signor Blum (Fondamenta Gherardini, off Campo San Barnaba, 2840 Dorsoduro, TEL: 041/5226367) makes solid large-piece puzzles (painted or in natural wood colors) depicting animals, views of Venice, and trompe l'oeil scenes. Ideal toys for toddlers, the puzzles also make a nice picture to hang.
La Stamperia del Ghetto (Calle del Ghetto Vecchio, 1185/a Cannaregio, TEL: 041/2750200) collects black-and-white prints of the old ghetto.
Piano bars
HoTel. Monaco & Grand Canal. The piano bar in this luxe hoTel. is especially pleasant in winter, when the fireplace adds warmth to the refined and romantic ambiance. HoTel. Monaco & Grand Canal, Calle Vallaresso, 1325 San Marco, TEL: 041/5200211. Oct.-June, daily 7:30 PM-midnight.
Linea d'Ombra. A combination piano bar-restaurant, this is a romantic after-dinner stop on the Zattere. Outside seating faces the island of San Giorgio. Punta della Dogana, 19 Dorsoduro, TEL: 041/5204720. Thurs.-Sat. and Mon.-Tues. 8 AM-2 AM.
Martini Scala Club. At this elegant piano bar with a restaurant, tickling of the ivory starts at 10 and goes until the wee hours. Calle del Cafetier, 1007 San Marco, TEL: 041/5224121. Wed.-Mon. 10 PM-3:30 AM.
