Historically, Venice was the crossroads of the spice trade between Europe and the Orient and was a city that played host to a myriad of nationalities and cultures. As a result, Venetian cuisine is a blend of numerous cooking styles and dishes, such as 'Rio al cavroman' - a Levantine method of cooking lamb with cloves and cinnamon, transformed by the Venetians into their famous risotto. Polenta, too, is a basic ingredient found in many of Venice's dishes. Specialists in seafood, Venetians can find an infinite variety of ways to cook 'baccala' and liven up the humble sardine with onions, spiced vinegar, pine nuts and raisins to make 'sardelle in saor'. However, if you prefer a more international flavour, there are a wide variety of foreign restaurants throughout the city.
Gastronomic
Al Covo
Close to the Arsenal, this small restaurant decorated with 1960s paintings and Murano lamps, specialises in historical dishes of the lagoon. The goby fish, used for the soup or served with gnocchi, is excellent. Alternatively, diners can follow owner Cesare Benelli's recommendations on the catch of the day. The tranquil location, professional expertise and personal touch add to the appeal.
Campiello della Pescaria, Castello 3968
Tel.: (041) 522 3812. Fax: (041) 522 3812.
Price: EUR46. Wine:EUR11.
Antica Trattoria La Furatola
Off the beaten track in the Dorsoduro, La Furatola serves wonderfully fresh Venetian seafood. The intimate, wholly untouristy locale is particularly charming in the evening and great to hole up in on a rainy day. Amid the maritime decor sitting at one of the small tables dressed with white linen, one cannot go wrong choosing from the Venetian house specialities, such as the mantis shrimp, soft shelled crabs and cuttlefish.
Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2869
Tel.: (041) 520 8594.
Price: EUR77. Wine: EUR18.
Harry's Bar
The American Bar made famous by Hemingway obliges most self-respecting travellers, particularly Americans, to make at least one visit. The Bellini, a peach and prosecco cocktail invented here, is always excellent. The ever-crowded restaurant offers just 14 tables, snugly nestling beneath the exposed wooden beams and antique lamps. The house speciality, John Dory with tomato and capers, is recommended.
Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323
Tel.: (041) 5285 7777. Fax: (041) 520 8822.
E-mail: info@cipriani.com
Website: www.cipriani.com
Price: EUR114. Wine: EUR18.
La Caravella
Off St Mark's Square in the HoTel. Saturnia, La Caravella is the pride of the Serandrei family. The à-la-carte menu is inventive and seasonal, including historical recipes, such as sea bass with pine nuts and basil. The wood-panelled dining room is most atmospheric in winter, while there is a private courtyard for dining in summer.
Calle Larga XXII Marzo, San Marco 2398
Tel.: (041) 520 8901. Fax: (041) 520 7131.
E-mail: caravella@hotelsaturnia.it
Website: www.hotelsaturnia.it
Price: EUR67. Wine: EUR20.
Osteria Da Fiore
Diners must book in advance to eat at this outwardly humble-looking gourmet haunt, a minute from Campo San Polo. Maurizio and Mara Martin's formula is simple: immaculate interior decor and service, uncompromising use of fresh seasonal ingredients and a stock of fine wines. Recommended dishes include the speciality fresh tuna baked with rosemary and the lemon and liquorice sorbet for dessert. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Calle del Scaleter, San Polo 2202
Tel.: (041) 721 308. Fax: (041) 721 343.
E-mail: info@dafiore.com
Website: www.dafiore.com
Price: EUR90. Wine: EUR18.
Business
Ai Gondolieri
This mid-sized, elegant restaurant near the Peggy Guggenheim Collection specialises in exclusive meats and vegetable dishes. Angus beef and ostrich share the menu with traditional Veneto platters, such as stewed chicken with polenta. The quiet locale, fine wines and good service appeals to small business groups and gourmets interested in the dishes of mainland Veneto. Closed Tuesday.
San Vio, Dorsoduro 366
Tel.: (041) 528 6396. Fax: (041) 521 0075.
E-mail: aigond@gpnet.it
Website: www.aigondolieri.com
Price: EUR77. Wine: EUR15.
Locanda Cipriani
Long a favourite with English royals and Hollywood stars, this escape on the island of Torcello, has been famous since its discovery by Ernest Hemingway. The courteous service, excellent kitchen and ample space make it ideal for business lunches or dinners. Best enjoyed in June when the beautiful rose garden blooms and the heavenly vegetable risotto oozes with flavour.
Piazza San Fosca 29, Isola di Torcello
Tel.: (041) 730 150. Fax: (041) 735 433.
E-mail: info@locandacipriani.com
Website: www.locandacipriani.com
Price: EUR52. Wine: EUR15.
Ristorante Al Theatro
In the San Marco area, next to the burnt shell of the Fenice theatre, this pizzeria and restaurant offers five rooms across the ground and first floor and an outdoor terrace in summer. The civilised surroundings are ideal for large parties on restricted budgets, with a wide menu offering value for money. The scaloppine al Fenice, seared veal cutlets served with fresh seasonal vegetables, are recommended.
Campo San Fantin, San Marco 1916
Tel.: (041) 522 1052. Fax: (041) 523 7214.
Price: EUR44. Wine: EUR15.
Ristorante Antico Pignolo
Hidden in the warren of allies behind St Mark's Square, Riccardo de Pietri's luxurious, roomy restaurant is ideal for large business parties and a favourite with Venetian society. The rose and pasTel. decor befits the distinctly regal atmosphere. Sommelier, Pippo Sgarlata, has the best-stocked wine cellar in Venice, designed to accompany premium Mediterranean dishes, such as prosciutto San Daniele, tagliolini with rock lobster and the vanilla and chocolate souffle 'Arlecchino'.
Calle dei Specchieri 451, San Marco
Tel.: (041) 522 8123. Fax: (041) 520 9007.
E-mail: anticopignolo@libero.it
Price: EUR114. Wine: EUR31.
Terrazza Danieli
In summer, the rooftop restaurant at the luxury HoTel. Danieli (see the Hotels section) affords Venice's most famous view from the Riva degli Schiavoni over San Maggiore. When it is important to impress, the opulent surroundings and infallible service make this the natural choice. Reservations recommended.
Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196
Tel.: (041) 522 6480. Fax: (041) 520 0208.
E-mail: res072.danieli@luxurycollection.com
Website: www.luxurycollection.com/danieli
Price: EUR93. Wine: EUR31.
Trendy
Al Paradiso Perduto
This noisy and chic osteria, near the Ca'D'Oro, is a popular evening haunt for Venice's students and young professionals. Diners can watch live bands while tucking into the large dishes of tasty pasta and surveying Venice's young and beautiful late into the evening. The spicy fish soup is recommended, perhaps followed by various appetisers from the open bar.
Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio 2540
Tel.: (041) 720 581. Fax: (041) 275 6598.
Price: EUR34. Wine: EUR2 (per quart).
Enoteca Mascareta
This late-night venue (18-00-01-00), with its open layout, wooden tables, and traditional rustic feel, attracts a relaxed crowd of students and young professionals. The peckish can graze on select cuts of cured meat, local cheeses and crostini. After 2300, the place fills up with social drinkers. To fit in, visitors should try a glass of dessert wine and esse (Venetian biscuits).
Calle lunga Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5183
Tel./fax: (041) 523 0744.
Price: EUR39. Wine: EUR12.
Le Bistrot de Venise
Midway between the Rialto Bridge and St Mark's Square, Le Bistrot de Venise is a restaurant, an artsy wine bar, a late-night venue and a meeting place for artists and poets, with regular afternoon cultural programmes. The Ristorante del Bistrot serves classical Venetian cooking inspired by 16th-century recipes. Try the speciality, baked eel, with bay leaves and red pepper sauce. The Bar à Vins serves an excellent selection of Italian wines, to complement the food or to quaff while nibbling cheese.
Calle dei Fabbri, San Marco 4685
Tel.: (041) 523 6651. Fax: (041) 520 2244.
E-mail: info@bistrotdevenise.com
Website: www.bistrotdevenise.com
Price: EUR41. Wine: EUR12.
Osteria Al Ponte
This cheap University district tavern is nicknamed Alla Patatina after its speciality -chunky rosemary roasted potatoes. The service is basic, the decor cheap and there are no reservations, but diners should try and grab one of the few tables and dig into cheap spaghetti with clams. Its popularity with chic and stylish students has made it a buzzing lunchtime hangout.
Ponte San Polo, San Polo 2471
Tel.: (041) 523 7238.
Price: EUR18. Wine: EUR2 (per quart).
Osteria La Zucca
It is essential to book at this trendy vegetarian osteria ('The Pumpkin') near the station. Its seasonal specialities should not be missed, particularly the oven-roasted or pan-fried pumpkin, spiced with cinnamon and served with local Asiago cheese, or the pumpkin pie for dessert. Diners can sit inside looking over the canal or outside in the summer.
San Giocomo dell'Orio, Santa Croce 1762
Tel.: (041) 524 1570.
Price: EUR39. Wine: EUR9.
Budget
Da Renato
This is povera cucina (poor man's food) at its best. Renato, the chef and owner, offers a bargain alternative to the gourmet Da Fiore round the corner (see Gastronomic above). His pasta and bean soup is part of an old Venetian tradition, kept on the stove all day to provide an all-in-one meal (piatto unico) for weary gondoliers.
Rio Terà Secondo, San Polo 2245A
Tel.: (041) 524 1922.
Price: EUR26. Wine: EUR9.
Da Sergio
This Venetian equivalent of a working man's café is packed to the gills at lunchtimes thanks to a cheap and cheerful three-course deal for under L25,000/EUR13. The menu changes daily, always including a pasta or risotto course, followed by cooked meats, such as stewed chicken. Non-Italian-speakers might feel intimidated in this local haunt but for a taste of down-at-heel Venice, this hits the mark.
Calle del Dose, Castello 5870A
Tel.: (041) 528 5153. Fax: (041) 528 5153.
Price: EUR13. Wine: EUR9.
Enoteca Boldrin
This bustling wine bar near Campo SS Apostoli also incorporates a no-frills self-service restaurant where travellers muck in with the locals. Meat dishes, such as oxtail and tripe, are favourites, while the tramezzini - delicate white sandwiches with outsize fillings - are delicious with a crisp glass of prosecco.
Salizzada San Canciano, Cannaregio 5550
Tel.: (041) 523 7859.
Price: EUR23. Wine: EUR11.
Osteria Al Bomba
Just off the Strada Nuova, this unfussy and inexpensive osteria offers a huge selection of raw and cooked antipasti from the counter throughout the day. Solitary diners and those short of time will appreciate its convenience and the delectable choice of appetisers laid out across the bar. The long thin dining area is wholly unglamorous but the traditional cichete (Venetian tapas), such as sarde in saor (marinated sardines), best accompanied by a spritz (a local aperitif), are excellent.
Calle del Oca, Cannaregio 4297/98
Tel.: (041) 241 1146.
Price: EUR18. Wine: EUR7.
Trattoria Dai Tosi
A good pizza is hard to find in Venice, which makes this popular Arsenal local a big hit. Diners should beware of imitations - next door trades under the same name! The house speciality is the 'Gregory Speck', a pizza topped with Austrian ham. For dessert, the sgroppino (literally a 'belch') is a vodka and lemon sorbet, which tastes much better than it sounds.
Secco Marina, Castello 738
Tel.: (041) 523 7102.
Price: EUR23. Wine: EUR9.
Personal recommendations
Alle Testiere
A good choice for romantics even if the large window does invite the glances of every passer-by. The speciality is fresh fish, such as grilled razor clams and the excellent misto fritto (mixed fried fish). Proprietor Luca darts among the candlelit tables and will happily advise diners on the specialities of the day in this tiny but atmospheric local.
Calle del Mondo Novo, Castello 5801
Tel.: (041) 522 7220. Fax: (041) 522 7220.
Price: EUR52. Wine: EUR13.
Bar Trento
A favourite with the stars and paparazzi who visit Venice's annual film festival, this osteria offers a wide array of cicheti (appetisers), including polpette (meatballs) and baccala (salt cod), as well as full meals. Outside of the film festival, it only opens for lunch but makes a perfect break from the conference centres or the beach.
Via San Gallo 82, Lido
Tel.: (041) 526 5960.
Price: EUR34. Wine: EUR12.
Caffe Quadri
Like a Merchant Ivory film set, Caffe Quadri serves up a big helping of Venetian history, combining as it does a view over St Mark's Square with palatial furnishings. The refined and competent cuisine draws the crowds, making reservations imperative and pushing up the prices. The homemade tagliolini and rock lobster is great.
Piazza San Marco 120, San Marco
Tel.: (041) 522 2105. Fax: (041) 520 8041.
E-mail: quadri@venice.com
Website: www.quadrivenice.com
Price: EUR103. Wine: EUR28.
Harry's Dolci
There is no better place to watch the famous sunset over Venice's skyline than from the open-air terrace of Harry's Dolci on the island of Giudecca. It is also the place to indulge on calorific sweetmeats in the city that first imported sugar to Europe. Famous for its zabaglione (a Marsala-flavoured mousse) and rich pastries, this Cipriani outlet offers both snacks and full meals. Also great on a summer's day sitting outside under the festooned awnings.
Giudecca 773
Tel.: (041) 522 4844. Fax: (041) 522 2322.
E-mail: info@cipriani.com
Website: www.cipriani.com
Price: EUR83. Wine: EUR23.
Trattoria Alla Madonna
Near the Rialto Bridge, this large bustling trattoria is good value and a favourite among Venetians. In the daytime, the long tables laid out across the terracotta floor are a great informal place to tuck into a plate of pasta in cuttlefish ink or a bowl of minestrone. In the evening, the more serious dining gets under way - particularly seafood, much of it is fresh from the market nearby.
Calle della Madonna, San Polo 594
Tel.: (041) 522 3824. Fax: (041) 521 0167.
Price: EUR46. Wine: EUR9.
